Monday morning we headed southwest from Grand Junction to Mesa Verde National Park. The drive was absolutely glorious – I had no idea the San Juan Mountains were so beautiful. And the quick changes in scenery from arid desert to forests and mountains were mind-boggling. This was a most excellent part of our vacation.We stopped at many lookouts along the way, each one more beautiful than the next. We also listened to “Hatchet” on audio book which was the perfect story for our 4.5 hour drive. 
We arrived at the Mesa Verde visitor’s center around 1pm, and ate ham and cheese sandwiches and watermelon in the car for lunch. I had been to this park before as an eight-year old kid and I very vividly remember it. Seeing it as an adult and being able to appreciate the feat that the ancient Puebloan people accomplished to live in the cliffs made it all the more special. Driving around on the top of the mesas was really cool. All along were artifacts and lookouts to hunt for the cliff dwellings. This is the most famous and the largest. It was closed due to COVID but the lookout points were still really nice.
The park has an app that you can download and as you drive the loop on one of the mesas, it guides you through twelve stops, providing history, things to look for, their culture, etc. This was so unique and wonderful.
We did a nice hike and I again realized how in love I was with this desert scenery. The dry air, cactuses, junipers, smell of the pines, and strong wind were all so different than Georgia. There was something so calm, simple and peaceful about it. 
The 30-minute drive from Mesa Verde to Durango saw such a change in scenery that it seemed like we’d driven hundreds of miles. In that short of a drive we were completely out of the desert and into the lush, green mountains.
We stayed at the Strater Hotel downtown, which is super historic and done entirely in old West style, which I love. 
We enjoyed an evening in Durango, with dinner at El Moro and a stop for ice cream at Cream Bean Berry where I had the most amazing Fresh Mint Chip ice cream – it tasted just like fresh mint! Also had the vegan chocolate coconut, and all in a blue corn cone. Amazing.
Back the hotel, we reserved the hot tub and had it all to ourselves. Ahhh, perfection.
Tuesday was our train ride from Durango into the San Juan mountains along the Animas River. There was a huge mix-up with the departure point due to COVID and after dealing with an incredibly rude employee who told 5 other groups “too bad” when we arrived to find no train at that station, Sean got us on the later departure. It was a 40-minute drive from Durango and we stopped at some lookout points along the way for Sean to fly his drone. This place was so stunning – the water really is this color and really is that clear. 
What can I say about this train ride? The pictures don’t do it justice. What an experience!
With those amazing views etched into our minds, we decided to maintain the special vibe we were feeling with a stop at James Ranch for some specialty local food items, and to have a snack and wine on the rolling lawn with these killer views. Vacation. 
Another evening in Durango – dinner and drinks at the Belle Diamond Saloon, complete with piano player, then a stroll through downtown, and another reservation of the jacuzzi back at the hotel. What a day – memories to cherish forever.
After an early breakfast on Wednesday at the Lone Spur Cafe, we headed back north into the San Juan mountains. We stopped at Moras Pass for more amazing views (seriously, the views never end in this state. Ever.) before driving into the truly Old West-style and super remote town of Silverton.
The first thing we did was drive through town and out to the Old Hundred Gold Mine for a tour. I had randomly found this place online the day before and this was their first day open again after being forced closed due to COVID-19. With family from Northern Virginia and West Virginia, I knew a bit about mines but for coal, not gold – and I had never been in one. This was really cool and a great way to learn more about this important part of our country’s history. What a dangerous job. Our guide was a current miner and shared a lot of stories about how close all the workers are, and how their senses improved over time enabling them to really watch out for each other.
I loved all the Western-style buildings and how nestled the town was in the mountains. We had lunch at Thee Pitts Again BBQ, which had been featured on “Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives.” 
We headed north again to Ouray, driving the famous “Million Dollar Highway” – it was incredibly expensive when it was built in the 1920s. The ascent to Red Mountain is full of sharp turns and narrow lanes with no guard rails. Everyone we encountered told us this was terrifying and treacherous but I have to say that I found the Pacific Coast Highway southbound in California to be far scarier.
Opposite of Silverton, Ouray is built into the mountains, not nestled in a valley. It was bigger and more modern, and we stopped for a little souvenir shopping resulting in a haul of elk jerky. 
After Ouray, it was a couple more hours to Paonia for our next 2-night stay. I found Endless Endeavor Winery through Airbnb but booked directly with them for a discount. It was one apartment with this view, and the retired couple who owns the place were so lovely. We had a wine-tasting upon arrival, got a free bottle for staying 2+ nights, and dined al fresco for dinner. It was the perfect spot to settle into after a very busy road trip day!
